Hiking Kebnekaise​

Photos from activities around Kebnekaise fjällstation (Kebnekaise mountain lodge) and the ascent of Kebnekaise, the highest mountain in Sweden 2104 m*.

There are two distinct summits on Kebnekaise, Sydtoppen (South summit) and Nordtoppen (North summit). Sydtoppen is the highest point of Sweden. On the summit there's snow and ice all year around. The height varies, depending on time of year and weather. Sydtoppen is a small glacier, about 40 meters thick.

I went Västra leden (Western route) and it goes from Kebnekaise fjällstation (670 m*) via Kitteldalen (Kittel valley) up to Kittelsjön (Kittel lake 1194 m*), ascent of Vierramvare (1711 m*), descent to Kaffedalen (Coffee Valley 1520 m*) and finally the ascent up to Sydtoppen (2104 m*). The distance back and forth Kebnekaise fjällstation is around 26 km and it took me around 11 hours to complete the trip.

You need to be in fairly good shape in order to fully enjoy the trip. No climbing is required but some parts are pretty steep and rocky so a pair of hiking poles are useful and will save your knees on the descent.
* meters above sea level

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Note! Click on images to see slideshow and captions!

I arrived at mid day in Kiruna and had two hours to spend before I was going to take the bus to Nikkaloukta. This is my equipment, 25 kg.

Kiruna is situated north of the Arctic Circle and is the world’s largest city in area. (20,669 square km)

I had lunch at this chinese restaurant. About 20,000 people live in Kiruna city.

I met up with Tora, Karin, Fredrik and Elin in Nikkaloukta. Karin is my cousin from Gothenburg.

After 6 km we arrived at Kaffekåtan where we took the boat along Laddjujarvi.

Tora and Karin are waiting for the boat to depart. At Kaffekåtan you can buy burgers made of reindeer.

The boat took us 5 km on Laddjujarvi and you can see the mighty Tuolpagorni in the horizon.

Elin and Tora are tucking in to LapDånalds reindeer burgers.

From here, where we left the boat, we had additional 7 km to go.

We had perfect weather but there were lot’s of mosquitos. As usual it was only me who had problem with them.

A cloud of biting insects were always following me, at the same time the others were happily unaware of the problem!

We camped about 10 minutes from Kebnekaise fjällstation. This is my home, a Hilleberg Acto.

Breakfast day 2. Our plan was to make day trips from here and depending on the weather also try an ascent of Sydtoppen.

Here, Tora has just finished her breakfast.

Kebnekaise fjällstation. The weather change rapidly in this area, from clear to foggy in minutes, >

> which is important to note if you are planning an ascent of Sydtoppen. The first person climbing Sydtoppen was the >

> Frenchman Charles Rabot in 1883. Kebnekaise fjällstation belongs to STF, the Swedish Tourist Association.

The building was built in 1907, but it has been rebuilt since then. In 1912 the first payment was made for accommodation >

> in the cottage, 1:50 kr for members in STF and 2 kr for others! Today Kebnekaise fjällstation has 198 beds in the >

> main building and the five annexes. The station has a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and an à la carte menu.

It also has a common room, shower, sauna and drying room.

View from Kaipak, the small mountain just near the station.

Day 2 we did a small day trip up in the Tarfala valley.

Here for the first time, I’m enjoying the clear weather without mosquitos!

Tarfala valley

After a rough ride through Tarfala valley, Tora is preparing a chocolate mousse as a dessert.

Unfortunately my friends had to go back to the civilization earlier than me.

Unfortunately for them, the weather for an ascent was perfect the very same they had to go back!

6 am in the morning, the others still sleeping and I 'm soon on my way to Sydtoppen.

View over Tuolpagorni.

At first Västra leden and Kungsleden (The King’s trail) are running along together.

Soon Västra leden turn north >

> up in Kitteldalen where Kittelbäcken (Kittel stream) coming down from the mountains.

Here I’m enjoying the fact that I’m on my way to Sydtoppen and that the weather is perfect!

Kittelbäcken and the mountain Vierramvare in the middle.

Kittelbäcken 100 m down in the valley covered by snow.

I’m approaching Kitteldalen.

Kitteldalen. Västra leden continues up hill towards the snow field in the middle.

I’m following Västra leden and slowly approaching the snow field in the middle.

View over Kitteldalen and Kittelsjön.

Now I’m beside the snow field I mentioned earlier and I’m looking back over Kitteldalen.

The ascent of Vierramvare.

View from Vierramvare and we see Tuolpagorni straight ahead.

View from Vierramvare.

When you reach the summit of Vierramvare there are hundreds of cairns everywhere.

Västra leden continues down hill in Kaffedalen and then up hill on the other side, on Kebnekaise.

A short break in Kaffedalen before the actual ascent of Kebnekaise.

My Meindl Vakuum did the job perfectly well.

View from Kebnekaise, down below Kaffedalen and on the other side Vierramvare.

There had been good weather the whole way up, but near Toppstugan hut, the fog came.

100 m from the actual summit. The weather condition had made it too dangerous to >

> continue without crampons, pure ice in combination with the fog.

Here is the reason why it’s important to bring your map and compass (or GPS) always with you.

After Toppstugan going down hill the fog was clearing up a bit.

A short break again at Kaffedalen. Down here the weather was clear.

Again, crossing the summit of Vierramvare, but now heading in the other direction.

I’ll be back! Of course I was a bit disappointed not to have been able to see the actual summit, >

> but overall I was satisfied. Good weather, no accidents and I completed the trip in 11 hours which is not bad.

The day after the ascent I was recovering doing nothing, just relaxing.

Ok, this is me and the last glimps of Tuolpagorni in the horizon.

Back again in Nikkaloukta.

I spent the last night in Kiruna on Point North Youth Hostel.

View from my window.

The dinner, real thai food made by real thai food experts, eaten by a real thai food lover!